Porto, like the liquor of the same name, is an acquired taste. The gray skies melt into its gray buildings—broken only occasionally, and as a result, somewhat shockingly—by brilliantly -colored ceramic tile facades. The tiles apparently stand up to the stormy Atlantic weather. A brutal dictator, António de Oliveira Salazar, ruled Portugal from 1932 to 1968. The scars of his torture and pillage remain in the minds of its people. In a small town not far from the border, a statue of a broken chain celebrates their freedom upon his death.
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